🔗 Share this article

When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. However, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.